Long before it was candy, cacao was an experience. For more than three thousand years, the Olmec, Maya and Aztecs ground the seeds into a bitter, frothing drink and they prized it for what happened after the cup was empty: a surge of energy, a lift in mood, a clear and focused mind.
When Hernán Cortés and the Spanish conquistadors encountered cacao in 1519, it was not the taste that won them over. The drink was famously bitter. It was the feeling. They carried cacao home to Spain, and from there it spread through the royal courts and affluent houses of Europe, still consumed as a beverage and still valued for its energy, stamina and euphoria.
Then came the pressure to make it cheaper, more palatable. In 1828, Dutch chemist Coenraad van Houten patented a press that squeezed the fat from the seed, leaving a dry powder he then treated with alkaline salts. It was a masterpiece of industrial engineering. Harsh bitterness mellowed into a smooth, palatable flavor. Beans of different genetics and wildly different flavor profiles could be blended into one consistent product. Separating the powder from the butter meant every batch could be measured, standardized and scaled.
Within twenty years, the first solid chocolate bar was born, but the bitterness the chocolate industry engineered away was the very chemistry people had valued. The flavanols, polyphenols and methylxanthines behind cacao's felt experience are the same compounds that make it bitter, and fermentation, roasting and alkalization strip out the vast majority of them. The molecules that made people feel something were largely gone. In the name of economics, profit and industrialization, cacao lost its soul.
Since the Dutch press arrived in 1828, most of the world's chocolate has been a recombination of cocoa powder and cocoa butter — the hollow remnants of a once-sacred plant. Fermentation, high-heat roasting and alkalization were built for flavor, color, shelf life and cost, and the compounds responsible for cacao's power happen to be the same ones responsible for its bitterness. Every step that made chocolate delicious made it inert.
Modern science is now confirming what ancient civilizations knew. Cacao flavanols and theobromine have been studied in randomized human clinical trials for blood flow, memory, cognitive performance, alertness and mood.*